The smoking jacket

Yesterday was my birthday, and every year I like to go somewhere and do something. This year I saved a little bit of money and me and my husband went to the designers outlet in Roermond. To look around, visit the big designer labels like Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, Armani, they are all represented there. And it is a different experience to be able to really look at the clothes, touch them, smell them and feel them, instead of seeing them in a magazine.

Dolce&Gabbana smoking jacket winter 2015

Modern smoking jackets by Dolce&Gabbana in 2009

The Dolce&Gabbana jackets really impressed me. They turn everything up side down by using a typical tie fabric for a jacket, or bright ornaments that others use only in the lining.
It reminded me of the old smoking jackets. They really went out of fashion in the 1950's, and nowadays with nobody smoking anymore there is really no use for them, other than looking splendid. The smoking jacket is not to be confused with the smoking or tuxedo which is actually a less formal diner jacket. The smoking jacket is even more informal, and reminds most of 'Robe du chambre'. it is typically made of velvet, silk, cashmere or printed flannel lined with bright colors and ornamented with brandenbourgs or large buttons. So, the smoking jacket is fun! A way for self expression in a mens wardrobe.

Typical smoking jackets ornamented with brandenbourgs

Ward Nicolas Boylston, a wealthy merchant, in a Banian.

In the beginning of the 17th century, lots of goods from the new world was imported in Europe: spices, coffee, tobacco and silks. It became very fashionable to be depicted in a 'robe du chambre' or banian.  It is from these garments the smoking jacket evolved. In the second half of the 19th century smoking became very popular in England, and a gentleman would retreit after dinner to the smoking room and the smoking jacket intended to absorb the smell of smoke and protect the gentleman's clothes from falling ashes. A smoking cap might have been worn with it. The smoking jacket kept its popularity well into the 20th century. Gary Grant, Fred Astaire and Dean Martin being enthusiastic wearers of this type of jacket. Sherlock Holmes must be the most famous of the smoking jacket fanatics. Probably the pipe has something to do with it.

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Man depicted in robe du chambre, early 20th century

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in smoking jackets

A comic book with Sherlock Holmes in a smoking jacket on the cover

All this makes me think of a time in history... I was young, the days were endless, we all would live forever and we smoked..