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The Plus Four

12/4/2015

Another wonderful item in a vintage style men's wardrobe would be the so called 'Plus four' ending four inches under the knee, hence the name. Other varieties are the 'Plus two', the 'Plus eight' and Knickerbocker. The style was introduced in America by Edward Prince of Wales during a diplomatic trip in 1924. It seems to fit in perfectly with the looser clothing style of the 1920's. The trousers are worn with argyle socks, silk neckties and dress shirts and sweaters. Some are worn as complete suits, like Louis Armstrong is wearing in the photo on the right.

Louis Armstrong in Plus fours with argyle socks.

The Norfolk suit

A tailored sports coat, with partial lining

The Plus four or Knickerbocker is very suitable for sports and the outdoors. For hunting it would be worn as part of the Norfolk suit (the name derived from the hunting suit of the 19th century Duke of Norfolk) made of a heavy tweed or plaid for the cold and wet English weather.

The Knickerbocker derived from the Dutch settlers in the 1600's in what is now New York. In 1809 writer Washington Irving wrote the satiric 'A History of New York from the Beginning of the World to the End of the Dutch Dynasty' under the pseudonym Diedrich Knickerbocker, later known as 'Knickerbockers history of New York'.
With the publication of Irving's book, the Dutch settler 'Knickerbocker' character became synonymous with New York City. Hence the name of the famous basketball team the New York Knicks.

The Dutch settlers and native Americans about 1600. Notice the short puffed trousers.

Palle Huld in Moscow

Later the Plus four was made famous by Tintin, the famous comic book Character by Hergé, presumably based on the actual person Palle Huld. In 1928 a Danish newspaper ran a centennial about author Jules Verne. The winner would re-enact the globe-circling voyage undertaken by Phileas Fogg in Verne's bestselling novel 'Around the World in 80 Days'. Strangely enough to our modern ideas, the contest was only open to teenage boys. Freckle faced and red haired Palle Huld traveled the globe, dressed in Plus fours.

Today the Plus four is most commonly known as a golfers outfit. And since the Plus four was worn often during sports and outdoors, we now can understand why golfers love to adorn themselves with puffed trousers and checkered socks.

Edward the Prince of Wales as painted by Wiliam Orpen

Two College undergraduates wearing Plus fours

A ladies Plus four advertised in a catalogue

read more:
Jocks and Nerds, Men's style in the Twentieth Century, Richard Martin and Harold Koda

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the waistcoat

1/4/2015

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One very typical item in a gentleman's wardrobe must be the waistcoat, in American English called a vest. Much loved by dancers it gives your outfit just a little bit more style and class, yet it is comfortable, and not as warm as a jacket.

A waistcoat is typically worn as part of a three piece suit. It can be single or double breasted, although single breasted is more common. it closes with buttons or snaps. Waistcoats can have lapels or revers, depending on the use and style. A watch can be kept in the front pocket, attached to chain trough a button hole. Wearing a belt with the trousers under a waistcoat is not traditional. Instead braces are worn that are covered by the waistcoat. Sometimes the bottom button is undone, or placed so it can't be closed at all. It is said King Edward VII, by then Prince of Wales started this fashion, due to his expanding waistline.

Waistcoat or vest made by myself with the bottom button undone

The waistcoat is said to derive from the Persians in the 17th century as seen by English visitors to the court of Shah Abbas. King Charles the II got the credits for introducing it in the European style of clothing. After the Great Plague, and the Great Fire of London, he felt the need for a more sober style of clothing. It was designed to discourage the use of lavish materials, and cover the body much plainer and cheaper than before. John Evelyn wrote about it on October 18, 1666: "To Court, it being the first time his Majesty put himself solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest changing doublet, stiff collar, bands and cloak, into a comely dress after the Persian mode, with girdles or straps, and shoestrings and garters into buckles...resolving never to alter it, and to leave the French mode".

King Charles II of England 1661-62in his parliamentary robes.

Antique Persian waistcoats

18th century dressing gown with attached waistcoat of chintz embroidered with flowers

a Dandy: Robert de Montesquiou 1855-1925, portrait by Giovanni Boldini, Musée d'Orsay, Paris.

Another milestone in European history that altered fashion and the waistcoat was the French revolution in 1789. The fit of the waistcoat became shorter and tighter. The waistcoat became skin tight, often stiffened with whale bone, reinforced buttons at the front and laced at the back just as a corset. The overcoat cut to emphasis the waist and broad shoulders. The Edwardian look (King Edward being a big fellow) made a larger physique more popular. With the Dandy-ism in the 19th century the waistcoat evolved to a foundation garment.

Read and see more:
I Am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman by Nathaniel Adams
History of men's fashion, Nicholas Storey

Waistcoats in the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Waistcoats in the Victoria & Albert Museum

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The Plus Four

the waistcoat

Sunny van Zijst

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