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How to lengthen or shorten trousers with turn ups.

13/4/2018

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Not a very difficult task. Anyone with a bit of sewing skills and a hot iron could do this. I thought it might be helpfull to show how to do this with the trousers in my collection. I shortened a pair today and made some pictures of the process.
Step 1. Put on the trousers and ask somebody to help. Easiest is if you can stand on a chair or little step. Fold the trousers upward and pin to what length you want them to be.
Another option is compare a well fitting pair of trousers (not jeans) and measure the inseam.
The next steps I will explain with pictures.
Picture
Unpick the stitches at top of the turn up. They are attached to the leg of the trouser at four points.
Picture
When you need to lengthen or shorten one inch, you can slide the turnup up or down and restitch at the four points you unpicked. Press and ready.
Picture
For more than one inch changes: Unpick the stitches that hold where the bottom 2 inches is folded to the inside. Very quickly done, they are loose stitches.
Picture
Another view of the inside and where to unpick
Picture
You will see there is a strip,of interfacing on the inside. Next step is to remove the interfacing
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Use steam to melt the glue. Don’t put the iron down but hoover close above it and use a lot of steam
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Now you can pull off the interfacing but be careful not to burn yourself!
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Turn trousers back as normal, and start pinning. These trousers have be 76 cm’s when they are finished. I have pit the red pin there. Now measure 6 cm to the left (up) and two times 6 to the right (down. Pin to mark.
Picture
You can use some chalk or what ever you like to use to mark a straight line just under the bottom pin. Cut there. Turn trousers inside out.
Picture
Cut new strips of interfacing. I have cut them 6 cm (about 2 inches) and iron on between the second and third pin from the top. (76 and 82 cm’s in precious picture)
Picture
Fold the bottom 6 cm’s up and press. Use the interfacing as a guide.
Picture
Finish the hem either with a serger or use a zig zag stitch on a conventional machine. Hand stitch the turn under to the trousers. Use loose stitches. They can be quite wide as well. Preferably attach to the interfacing alone, but if you go through the fabric make it a small stitch and you won’t see it on the outside.
Picture
Turn trousers back to the right side. This is what you should see with the bottom 6 cm’s turned under.
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Move the red pin over the blue pin, creating a fold on the inside. Pin in place. Do this all around the trouser leg.
Picture
Pin the fold of the turn up on the inside. Pin on the inseam, outer seam, front fold an back fold. Check the length now with a measuring tape or by trying on. You can adjust the turn up up or down if needed.
Picture
Use a few stitches, pivot back and forth two or three times on the four places you have pinned.
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Same as before, different view
Picture
Instead of horizontal stitches you can choose vertical as well.
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Fold back and press. The whole process takes me about an hour when I work calmly.
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    Sunny van  Zijst

    I am maker of vintage inspired couture. I was trained as a designer for theater costumes. Now I enjoy making vintage inspired clothing for men and women.

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